Terry's walk to Compostela

2012 - Return to the Camino Primitivo

2012-01-06T07:37:00.000-08:00

The Camino Primitivo still calls us, so we plan to return this year and complete the walk from Tineo to Santiago. Those who followed our return to the Camino in 2010 will remember that, although we had hoped to reach Grandas de Salime, we turned back at Tineo because of bad weather. This year we hope that we will have good weather. In 2009 Terry had mist over the high pass at Puerta de Palo so we would like a nice clear sunny day!!!!

Some months to wait, so plenty of time for preparation and training walks to continue. We aim to walk between 12 and 16km a day most days. A few will be longer to reach accomodation. This will give us time to look around, especially as we think this will be the last time we go as far as Santiago itself.

Camino Inglés 2011

2011-04-22T08:15:00.000-07:00

We are ready for this year's return to the Camino. Just hoping the weather in Spain improves as it is very wet and stormy at present. We hope it is dry and not too hot, like Terry had in 2009, and certainly not as cold as last year. We will be walking the Camino Inglés from Ferrol to Santiago, a distance of about 118kms.
If possible we might post occasionally while walking on Return to the Camino and expect to add more when we get home.
Terry's original Camino boots finally wore out so we are both wearing new (broken in) boots this year.

Plans for 2011

2010-11-19T12:31:00.000-08:00

Our plans for 2011 are going well so far. Our tickets are booked and we are well into our preparations. See Training for Pilgrimage to read our recent news.

Planning for 2011

2010-07-23T08:46:00.000-07:00

So having completed this year's walk along part of the Camino (see Return to the Camino) we are now preparing for next year. We hope to travel to Santander again, then by FEVE to Oviedo and on to Ferrol to walk the Camino Inglés.
We will be keeping up with our walking here, as training for next year, and you can follow our progress at Training for Pilgrimage.

2010 - return to the Camino

2010-05-01T07:31:00.000-07:00

This year we are returning to Spain together to visit some of the places that Terry passed through last year. We will also be walking part of the Camino together. We are travelling by ferry as foot passengers, taking the train from Santander to Llanes and then on again to Oviedo to start walking part of the Camino Primitivo.
See Training for Pilgrimage to read about our preparations and training, or click on the title above to read about our return to the Camino.

Exeter Cathedral to Santiago de Compostela

2009-07-18T08:49:00.001-07:00

My walk from Exeter to Compostela raised nearly £2,000 for Farm Crisis Network, as well as being a time of Pilgrimage. Thank you again for all your prayers and support as well as the generous donations to FCN

Leaving Exeter, 21st April 2009

Arriving in Santiago 28th May 2009

The photographs and early reflections on my Pilgrimage are below, as well as the original blog posts.

Camino Photographs and Reflections

2009-07-07T05:52:00.000-07:00

The photos run from the beginning of Terry's Pilgrimage through to his arrival in Santiago (May 28th) and visit to Finisterre (June 1st). The blog then runs from that point backwards - to his first entry when making his preparations.

'First Reflections on my Pilgrimage' can be found below

'Reflections Along the Coast' is at the post for 2nd July.

'Further Reflections on my Pilgrimage' is at the post for Monday 22nd June.

We left Santander on 4th June, arriving in Plymouth and then home on the 5th.

You can read more about the Pilgrimage at the Camino de Santiago forum

First Reflections on my Pilgrimage

2009-07-06T11:37:00.000-07:00

After 411.6 miles, 38 days on “The Way” and 32 different beds, I arrived in Santiago de Compostela on Thursday 28th May, two days earlier than planned. The feeling of walking into the plaza in front of the cathedral is impossible to describe! Mixed emotions of joy, triumph and, strangely, a certain feeling of sadness were all there and it was hard to hold back tears. I have brought back, along with the memories, over 500 digital photos which I have been busy sorting through and labelling. These are going up a few at a time as and when Valerie is able.

Did the Pilgrimage meet up with my expectations? Yes! and way beyond anything that I could have anticipated. Was it hard? Yes at times, but nowhere did I feel like giving up, even when walking in the pouring rain over the 'Puerto del Palo' - Alt. 1,140 mts and shrouded in mist!. Did I ever feel afraid? No, not once! I was alone for much of the time, and walking alone through remote areas I never had ‘the grues’. The only time I looked over my shoulder was when I saw the huge paw print, the size of my hand, on the track. Wolf? Bear? Great Dane? No, after asking some locals later, apparently it was a Porcupine!!

One great joy for me was the ability to talk to people in their own language. (There’s a sermon there somewhere!). Being able to walk into a cafe-bar and ask the way. Stop at the side of the road and talk to the local farmers about the weather / cattle / T.B. test. Even being asked to translate for a group of Germans who only spoke German and English! All this meant that I was close to people and their way of life.

So, it is a time to reflect and also a time to say ‘Thank-you’. The first thank-you is to my wife Valerie, she not only let me go, she gave me positive support and encouragement! Without her I would not even have considered it possible. Thanks also to friends here in England and further afield who have prayed for me over the past weeks. That prayer support was the reason for my inner calmness and the constant assurance of God’s presence.

Thanks to all those who have given a donation to the Farm Crisis Network. When all the promises are in, my hope of raising £500 will easily be met.

Finally, I want to put on record the kindness and help that I have received from the Spanish people themselves. I have been a sojourner in a foreign land, and from stepping off the ferry on the 27th April to driving back across Spain with Valerie and a friend, I have been treated with respect and courtesy. Nothing was too much for them to do and without the help of dozens of unknown people my pilgrimage would not have been so marvellous. Thank you all!

Photos: Santander - April 27th 2009

2009-07-05T07:32:00.001-07:00

Having arrived in Santander in the sunshine, on April 27th, I walked to Boo de Piélagos in the afternoon.

Photos: Santander to Boo de Piélagos

2009-07-05T06:50:00.001-07:00

Out of Santander the Way passes through Peña Castillo. The first Waymark was just along the road. In late April the Picos de Europa still had a good covering of snow. The view from the albergue window in Boo

Pilgrimage Reflections

2009-07-04T04:13:00.000-07:00

As I walked I was looking at the countryside and the farming. So many problems faced by farmers everywhere! I have been given sponsorship money for my Walk and, with Gift Aid, will have raised about £1,000 for Farm Crisis Network.
The Just Giving site directly related to my pilgrimage will close shortly, but you can still give to FCN if you wish through Just Giving - Farm Crisis Network.

Photos: Boo to Santillana

2009-07-04T04:08:00.001-07:00

The long walk round to avoid crossing the raiway bridge. The boat looked inviting, but not the guard dogs! The bridge can be seen through the trees. The photo for the post of 28th April 'Boo to Santillana' was taken from the opposite side of the river.

Photos: Santillana to Cóbreces

2009-07-03T12:26:00.001-07:00

A selection of churches. The Collegiate church of Santa Juliana in Santillana. The church of San Pedro at Oreña. The Abbey at Cóbreces and the parish church with the Abbey just showing in the background to the right.

Photos: Cóbreces to San Vicente

2009-07-03T08:50:00.001-07:00

A fortified house near Rabia.

The church of San Pedro near La Revilla has a tree growing on it!

The road near San Vicente showing the town and the bridge which is 1.8km long.

The church is visible on the hill in the centre of the photo and the castle towards the right

Photos: San Vicente

2009-07-03T08:32:00.001-07:00

A very early morning view of San Vicente from outside the albergue.

The castle is on the higher walkway above the town and not far from the church and albergue

The 13th C parish church of Santa María de los Angeles.
The albergue is in the white house nearest the church.

The Way leaves San Vicente near the church and climbs along the track to the top of the ridge and towards La Acebosa.

Photos: San Vicente to Colombres

2009-07-03T08:31:00.001-07:00

View from the hill near La Acebosa, looking back over the village to San Vicente

The Torre de Estrada built in the 14th C. by the Dukes of the House of Estrada

The bridge over the river at Unquera is at the boundary between Cantabria and Asturias

The albergue at Colombres

Reflections Along the Coast

2009-07-02T08:47:00.001-07:00

The first two days of the walk from Santander to Santillana are, quite frankly, boring! The modern Camino is on tarmac for the whole of this stretch and the area around Torrelavega is heavily industrialised. It would be possible to shorten this walk by using the pavement from Oruna to Requejada, or even taking the narrow-gauge railway from Santander to Requejada!
Once Cobreces is reached there is the feeling of being on a straight road! Only a feeling mind, the Way still winds around but at least goes in a westerly direction.
Do we have a 'built in' sense of direction? I took a small compass with me and only used it a couple of times in the rain and mist, when I felt that I was heading the wrong way. And I was right both times! Certainly, when on the old track-ways I had a feeling of being on the right road. The times when I went astray were in the city of Oviedo, on diversions that stopped the waymarks halfway, and on 'pavimiento' in the pouring rain when I missed a 'mojon' (concrete marker post).
In Comillas in the rain I saw a lone peregrino looking puzzled in the main square, a young 'gap year' German called Sven. He spoke excellent English but hardly any Spanish! After a welcome 'cafe con leche' I asked a taxi driver the way out of town - easy! From there we walked some 20 kilometres together to San Vicente de la Barquera.
Once past Colombres there is a beautiful coast path (not on the ancient camino) that goes most of the way to Llanes. From Buelna through to Sebrayo is what I will for ever think of, as the 'Camino de la Costa'.

Lessons learnt early in the Camino were: -
Don't ignore your 'gut feeling'. If it feels wrong, it most probably is wrong!
Don't be afraid to ask the way. The best people are taxi drivers rather than the police. The taxi drivers know all the shortcuts, legal and illegal!
As far as possible always speak to people in their language. If they know yours they will happily practise on you, which may make them more difficult to understand.

In Christian terms this last point could be called 'Incarnational Theology'. When God wanted to communicate with the human race He didn't sit on a cloud and shout. He sent His Son born of a woman, a human being like us; speaking our language.

The things we learn about on Pilgrimage!

Photos: Colombres to Llanes

2009-07-02T08:34:00.000-07:00

Leaving Colombres; the snow capped mountans can be seen behind the church

A very tidy little farm near El Campo

Two cows grazing near Pendueles

The coastline all along here is stunning.

Photos: First views of Llanes

2009-07-02T07:26:00.001-07:00

I had to walk on the 'hard shoulder' on the road near Llanes as there was tree felling on the other side where the Way is marked.

The 'new' town centre with the old castle, which is across the harbour, in the background.

The path along the cliff.

The view from the harbour out to sea

Photos: Llanes (rest day)

2009-07-01T12:33:00.000-07:00

The old town centre at Llanes. The house in the centre dates from 1200 and has a seperate kitchen building on its left.

The steps on the coast walk pass a natural cave under the cross.

At the other side of the square is the part Romanesque church of Santa María de Consejo with its ornate carved doorway

There is more about Llanes, with photos, at the posts for 2nd and 3rd May - 'Colombres to Llanes' and 'Llanes

Photos: Llanes to Nueva

2009-06-30T01:45:00.001-07:00

The Way crosses the beach at Celorio.

Gentians growing by the path

The deserted monastery at San Antolin

A wild looking pig in a pen near Naves

Reflections from the Coast to Oviedo

2009-06-29T06:24:00.000-07:00

The Camino Antiguo and Camino Real

Photos: Along the Camino Antiguo

2009-06-29T04:18:00.001-07:00

The Picos de Europa near Nueva

Near Torriello: the Way here is known as the Camino Antiguo

Photos: Ribadesello and Camino Real

2009-06-29T04:14:00.000-07:00

The Way leaves Ribadesello over the bridge.
At La Vega the Camino Real is still paved. (See blog for May 5th)

Photos: Along the coast to La Isla

2009-06-28T11:45:00.001-07:00

Photos: La Isla to Villaviciosa

2009-06-28T03:40:00.001-07:00

The new house is between two virtual ruins at La Calzada.

The Camino Real leaves the road and goes through the woods, still paved in parts.
(See blog for 5th May)

The wayside shrine was at La Vega (the other one!) on the Camino Real

A bend in the road provided a final view of the estuary as the Way turned inland

Photos: Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero

2009-06-27T09:20:00.001-07:00

At Capilla San Blas the Way divides, one part goes to Gijón, the other turns left through Valdediós. The shell signs on the marker stone (on roadside at left) face the chapel.

The maize store, on staddles to keep the rats away, has not been built under,unlike the store further on.

The largest Asturian medieval monastery, with the Abbey Church of Santa María is at Valdediós. It has been carefully restored.
Also in the monastery grounds is the church of San Salvador de Valdediós, consecrated in 893AD.

The walk from Valdediós was the first real test of my leg muscles uphill since I left Exeter and walked over Haldon (249mts). The Way rises 400mts in 3km, winding up the hillside. From the top there is a view down the 'Hidden Valley' to the monastery and the mist had gradually cleared to allow a photo back.

The brass scallop shells set in the paving slabs mark the Way in Pola de Siero and also in Oviedo

Photos: Pola de Siero to Oviedo

2009-06-27T09:14:00.000-07:00

The large bull (toro) sign is an advert for Toro wine, seen on a number of hilltops and visible for miles around.
A maize barn in use near Fonciello. The maize is hung on the outside of the barn to dry. This must be last year's crop. Nearby the old palace at Meres can be seen over the tree tops.
Just before Oviedo, at Colloto, the road passes over the old Way over the bridge (Puente de Colloto). Built on Roman foundations it was partially destroyed during the Civil War when a number of Roman coins from the 4th and 5th centuries were found in one of the damaged arches. The bridge was later restored and remains part of the Camino.

Photos: Oviedo - old and new buildings

2009-06-26T08:58:00.001-07:00

Parts of the church of San Tirso el Real date from the time of Alfonso 11 (791-842). The triple arch window is original. A the front of the building there is a Roman soldier standing in a niche.
Modern building works still preserve old walls. The scaffolding is holding up the old house front while new work takes place behind. This will eventually join the old facade.

Photos: Oviedo to Grado

2009-06-25T03:54:00.001-07:00

After a cloudy start, see blog for May 10th, the sun came out. The Camino follows the winding road past the apple trees near to an isolated house at Romeda. The wild flowers were further along the Way. At Peñaflor the houses overhung the road.

Photos: Grado to Salas

2009-06-25T03:41:00.001-07:00

The Camino follows the old paved Way at El Morriendo and crosses the Rio Narcea. It passes the monstery at Cornellana and crosses the Rio Nonaya twice, at Casazorrina, before reaching Salas.

Photos: Salas.

2009-06-24T09:56:00.000-07:00

When Terry reached Salas it was wet. When Valerie passed through on her way to meet Terry it was a scorching hot day.

Photos: Salas to Bodenaya

2009-06-23T12:28:00.000-07:00

The new road being built near to Salas crosses the valley on stilts and is cantilevered out on the supports visible in this photo.

An Asturian maize barn - Bodenaya.

The new albergue at Bodenaya.

The scallop shell way signs on the albergue doorpost, one pointing in to the albergue (refugio) and the other along the Camino.

Further Reflections on my Pilgrimage

2009-06-22T12:04:00.001-07:00

After leaving Oviedo the Camino passes through a number of small ‘market’ towns to which I could relate as a country-dweller! Even Tineo with a population of 11,539 (really???), does not seem that big when entering and leaving on the side streets taken by the Camino. For a country-boy places like Grandas de Salime (population 1,186) is somewhere that he can call ‘home’. Yes, there were road works with diversions and road walking in some places but for kilometre after kilometre I was surrounded by peaceful countryside.

I had (and still have) a mental and spiritual conflict over the this!

In many of the smaller villages there were ruined or neglected houses and barns. Some of them bearing the legend “SE VENDE” (FOR SALE), often in faded lettering. Time after time I thought “I could do something with that!” or “Wouldn’t that make a super albergue?”
I would guess that the younger members of the family had moved away in search of education or work, leaving the old folk in their ancestral village to struggle on in the old ways until they were too old or infirm to continue. The land only lends itself to ‘subsistance farming’. Would I really want to live there with my wife and children, dependent on the vagaries of the weather. And so I find myself mired in Geo-political Theory! Re-distribution of land, namely “3 acres and a cow” doesn’t work when people see better prospects in the towns and cities.
In the poem from which the following is an extract,William Roscoe gets carried away in eulogising ‘Mother Earth’.

From her exhaustless springs the fruitful earth
The wants of all supplies; her children we,
From her full veins the grateful juices draw,
With life and health replete; nor hard return
She at our hands requires, nor more than suits
The ends of health and pleasure; yet bestows
On all her offspring with a parent's love
Her gifts impartial:

William Roscoe: The Wrongs of Africa: 1787

But what if the returns of their labour does not satisfy the longings of human hearts? What if the earth is not fruitful? What if the return is hard - very hard? What if there is no “health and pleasure?” What if farming these small holdings just doesn’t work? What would God have me do?

Well, I did say it would take me a long time to work through my ‘Camino experience’!

Photos: Bodenaya to Tineo

2009-06-18T03:18:00.000-07:00

The waymarking is painted on the road at El Espin, with a shell inset to point the way. No chance of getting lost here!

Approaching Tineo, the snow can still be seen on the far mountains.

The white house is the Casa Cultural in Tineo, the resource centre for the town.

The view from the albergue window looks down the valley and roads nearby to the far mountains.

The shield is carved over the door of one of the old houses in Tineo

Photos: Tineo to Campiello

2009-06-17T09:04:00.000-07:00

Leaving Tineo. One of the streets in the town.

Looking back to Tineo from the hillside.

Along the track, looking towards Las Canteironas. You can see the wind turbines on the hilltop.

The pass over the mountains. I had to go over the pass at the right, showing above the trees.

Photos: Campiello to Pola de Allande

2009-06-17T08:46:00.000-07:00

At La Mortera the Camino splits. The higher route takes one day to reach Berducedo, but is not for lone walkers or in poor weather. The lower route via Pola de Allande is recommended, passing over the high ground on the second day between Pola and Berducedo. The two routes and the height guide can be seen on the sign. The shorter fork, which turns left, is the one for Pola, and can also be seen on the waymark. This being Asturias the hinge end of the shell sign is the pointer.

There was still some snow on the highest mountains. When I started to walk they were half covered.

Two views from my window in the hotel in Pola de Allande.
I tied my boots to the balcony railings to dry.

Photos: Pola de Allande to Berducedo

2009-06-17T02:39:00.000-07:00

I walked on the road, as advised, because of the low cloud.

The cloud hid the view sometimes but made some interesting photography.

The new albergue in Berducedo was good.
Clothes were hung on bunks to dry out, as elsewhere.
Some places have lines under cover (as at Bodenaya), but they still need a dry atmosphere.

Photos: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime

2009-06-17T02:35:00.001-07:00

A Fire Salamander, a type of small lizard, was on the road near Berducedo. The track led through the mountains to Grandas de Salime. The black squirrel was in the woods approaching the dam.

Photos: Embalse de Grandas de Salime

2009-06-16T05:58:00.000-07:00

The road zigzagged down to the dam, crossed it giving a view down the reservoir and then ran uphill again for 6km to the town. All the old workings and accomodation for the dam builders were still there. Derelict and weird. The old village of Salime is under the water.

Photos: Grandas de Salime - 1

2009-06-16T05:56:00.000-07:00

The museum in Grandas is fascinating with artifacts set out in a number of rooms and courtyards.

Reflections the Camino Primitivo

2009-06-15T02:32:00.001-07:00

The area around Grandas - watch this space

Photos: Grandas de Salime - 2

2009-06-14T07:46:00.000-07:00

The Collegiata de El Salvador (The Collegiate Church of the Saviour) in Grandas. There were swallows nesting in the arcade under the arches. Some were flying nearly at ground level. Can you see the one near the white line in the road?

The font was just inside, almost in the porch.

A small tortoiseshell butterfly on the wild flowers nearby

For more about Grandas de Salime see the posts for May 17th and 18th.

Photos: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada

2009-06-13T08:02:00.000-07:00

The early morning mist was rising as I left Grandas de Salime, then cleared later in the morning.

The beautiful little Capilla de la Esperanza de Malneira which I passed during the morning.

The view from the road at Bustelo del Camino.

The track off the hills came down onto the hot (steaming!!) tarmac of the roadworks, behind the roller. Not wanting to burn my boots I had to pick my way along the edge on the grass verge, round the back of the vehicles and back onto the road by the digger.

Photos: Fonsagrada to Cádavo

2009-06-12T11:38:00.000-07:00

Leaving Fonsagrada (top left)

Two views from the look-out point at Villardongo. The wild flowers were on the same stretch of road heading to the old hospital on the moor. (See post for May 20th, Fonsagrada to Cádabo.)

Photos: Between Cádavo and Lugo

2009-06-12T07:46:00.000-07:00

Looking back to Cádabo. It is like S Devon especially with the red soil.
(In Spanish the 'v' and 'b' are often interchangeable. The guide book has Cádavo and the map Cádabo. Pronunciation is between a b and a v whichever spelling is used)

The old Camino follows the 'hollow' track between the stones at Arroyo de Balsa.

Nearby the old irrigation system is still in use. The channels are opened, or dammed to control the direction and flow of water to the pastures.

The cross was at Souto de Torres.

Photos: Lugo

2009-06-12T04:28:00.001-07:00

The bronze statues of the city founders stand in the square near the cathedral.

The old wall behind the Cathedral is built re-using older stones from other buildings.

The replica of the Visigothic carving is in the museum

Photos: Lugo - Roman remains

2009-06-11T09:19:00.001-07:00

The Roman walls of Lugo encircle the city with the old gates still in place, plus a few newer ones. They are a World Heritage Site as the only complete walls in Europe.

Terry is standing outside of the Porta de Santiago (the Santiago Gate) on the Rua de Santiago. There is a photo of the inside of the gate at the post for Lugo on Saturday 23rd May

The museum has a wide range of Roman stones - milestones, altars to various gods etc.

Photos: Leaving Lugo

2009-06-10T09:42:00.001-07:00

The road leaves Lugo over the bridge, built on the original Roman piers. It continues along a paved road and then follows the line of the road along a track.

The tree is a cork oak.

The church is San Roman de Retorta, just before I saw the large paw print. (See post for 24th May ' Lugo to Ferreira')

Photos: Along the Roman road

2009-06-10T09:28:00.001-07:00

The Roman road continues along the track. It was near here that I saw the porcupine's paw print and tail track. (See 'Safe home' - June 6th)

The barn is granite. This is on the other side of the road from the barn which is on the post 'Lugo to Ferreira' on 24th May.

The house backed onto the track, an old 'longhouse' half built into the hillside at the back and two storey at the front.

Photos: Melide

2009-06-10T09:23:00.000-07:00

The church of Sancti Espiriti (the Holy Spirit) at Melide.

The footbridge at the ford on the Camino Francés leaving Melide

Photos: Melide to Arzua

2009-06-10T01:37:00.001-07:00

The bridge at Ribadiso is Roman, the sign tells about its age and restoration.

The waymark shows that there is only 39.5km to go!!

The view is from Arzua looking back to the 'granite moor' on the horizon. I came round the left shoulder of the distant hill with the wind turbines on.

Photos: Nearing Santiago

2009-06-09T11:42:00.001-07:00

Nearing Santiago de Compostela, past Lavacola and Monte do Gozo. Pilgrims sat on the stone in the stream to wash and the wear marks can be seen. Monte do Gozo provided the first view of Santiago in the distance

The first glimpse of the cathedral and journey's end

Final Reflections on my Pilgrimage

2009-06-08T01:16:00.001-07:00

Photos: Santiago de Compostela

View of the Cathedral from the old town

The Holy Door (right) is only open in years when St James Day is on a Sunday. Due in 2010

Pilgrim's Mass
Thursday 28th May

The Botofumeiro is prepared

The Botofumeiro at the top of its swing across the transept, right over Terry's head

Photos of Finisterre

2009-06-07T08:13:00.000-07:00

The cross is on the cliffs, near the lighthouse, at Finisterre. Many pilgrims have left shells here. Our friend's one then went over the cliff and into the sea.

The final waymark is here too, marked as 0.00 KM

Safe home

2009-06-06T09:45:00.000-07:00

Having taken 5 weeks to walk to Santiago I have had 5 days holiday, with Valerie, before catching the ferry home from Santander. I will be putting some thoughts and more photos on the blog in the days ahead. Meanwhile thank you for your support.

The identity of the footprint was solved by a local in Ria de Abres. We had stopped for lunch on our way home through the mountains and asked the owners of the Mesón O Fornacho if they could identify it. The patrón went for his friend from down the road and he said it is a Porcupine. Once you know you can actually see its 'tail trail' running parallel to the stick on the right, and just touching the tip.
The Camino del Norte crosses the road by the Mesón O Fornacho at Ria de Abres; a good place for pilgrims to eat!

Saturday 30th May

Re-united

Terry and Valerie outside the Cathedral on 30th May. We met up at the Hotel Santa Lucia, just outside Santiago. We had Saturday afternoon to look round together, with the friend who had accompanied Valerie on her journey out. Then on Sunday we were all able to go to the Pilgrims' Mass together for Pentecost Sunday. Wonderful! Full procession with the Saint, also the Botofumeiro was swung at the start of the service, which was led by the Bishop.

Santiago De Compostela

2009-05-29T12:21:00.000-07:00

Terry is exploring Santiago.

When he gets back to the UK next week, he will be putting up some reflections and comments on his pilgrimage. He has seen so much worth sharing with others - which may encourage them to make their own pilgrimage.

A picture of Terry in the Tee-shirt, a leaving gift from Buckland Tout Saint´s church. If you haven´t seen it it says on the front "From Exeter Cathedral" and in large print on the back "To Santiago De Compostela". Too hot to take off the hat, even the pigeons were in the shade!!!

The glorious west front of the Cathedral, it really is something worth seeing.

Terry is supporting Farm Crisis Network. You can read more about it here. If you would like to donate, you can so here.

Santiago De Compostela

2009-05-28T13:57:00.000-07:00

Terry arrived in Santiago today at 11:00 after doing the last 18 kilometres! Here are the photos:

The city boundary sign meant there was only two miles or so to go - the
boring part. The outskirts of one city are just like all others. Different
when you get into the old part though.

A kind American family took this for me. I had literally just arrived -
nearly in tears after more than 5 weeks "in the Way".

My Compostela - Given by the Cathedral authorities to those who have
made their pilgrimage "for spiritual reasons". "Tourists" get a
certificate to show that they have done it.

More details of Santiago to follow...

Arzua to Pedrouzo-Arca: - & Melide to Arzua

2009-05-27T13:46:00.000-07:00

20km
14:00 Terry is in Pedrouzo-Arca. He is staying in a pension which he booked by phone last night.

He has about 20 km left to Compestella!

The Camino Frances leaving Arzua Wednesday morning. It is like getting
onto the motorway after driving for miles and miles across Dartmoor!
Suddenly the "Way" is wide, well marked and full of people. Completely
different with folk to walk with and talk to if you want.

Lunchtime Wednesday - there are now people around who are happy to take a photo! Began with a cheese omlette, then chicken and chips. This was in a wayside bar-cafe with another 6 kilometres to my lodging.

Not an instrument of torture but an old Spanish hay-cart.

Tuesday 26th May

Melide to Arzua

14.5km
13.00 Arrived in Arzua and staying in the Pension Teodora. A fine sunny day.

Sileage clamps near Arzua. The vegetables appear to be growing on the run off!

Please continue to pray for all farmers and for Farm Crisis Network.
You can read more about FCN here. If you would like to donate to FCN's work you can so here.

Ferreira to Melide

2009-05-25T01:13:00.000-07:00

26km
15.30:Terry is in a cheap and cheerful 'pension' as the albergue was full. There are a good number of pilgrims on this route. It has rained all day but he was soon showered, warm and dry.
He said" Granite tors were part of the scenery over the top today, 720 mts high and in the mist again.
Hospitales was the site of a pilgrim hospice in the middle ages, near Roman de Retorta in the middle of the 'moor'. A kind woman made me a hot coffee - it was bucketing it down with rain and the cloud was down on the hill tops."

The view is above Hospitales

Galician maize store

Lugo to Ferreira

2009-05-24T07:01:00.000-07:00

27km
14.00: Terry is at the Casa da Ponti in Ferreira, also known as Mosteira, where he was met at the door.
Relatively easy walking today as there were no mountains! It was raining for the last 2km, but Terry had oiled his boots again yesterday so they were fine, and his cape is now drying in the shed.
He left Lugo over the Roman bridge and walked here on the Roman road, Via Romana Lucus Iria Flavia, now a forest track
Only 23km, still on the Roman road, to Melide where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Francés.

The paw print was interesting -someone may know what it is - great
dane or similar??? It was too big for a wolf and not round enough for a bear.
I saw it on the Roman road. Glad I didn´t meet it whatever it was.
(Identified - see post 'Safe home' June 6th.)

Roman Milestone replica,
the real one is in a museum
at San Roman de Retorta.

Granite buildings, just like dartmoor

The cooperative sign was on side of barn.

Lugo

2009-05-23T01:27:00.000-07:00

It is very quiet in town this morning, I am the only one in the
internet cafe - have to pay but only 1.00eu an hour.

The Porta San Pedro is the old gate used by pilgrims
into the city. King Alfonso was the first to use the Camino Primitivo on
his visit to Compostela just after the discovery of the saint .
The stone is at the gate a reminder that the Camino Primitivo is just that
- the oldest pilgrim ´way´ on record.

The Porta Santiago is the way out of the city from the west front of the
Cathedral. I will, I hope be going out that way early tomorrow morning.

Lugo

2009-05-22T07:47:00.000-07:00

I am enjoying a day as a tourist. I have also collected two stamps here for my pilgrim's passport. One is from the hotel and the other from the Cathedral. I met their Pilgrim's Warden who was delighted to meet an English priest and took me for a cup of coffee and some cake. He was very impressed that I had come on the Camino Primitivo and said it was 'quite an achievement', which has really encouraged me.

Views of the Roman walls

The photo of the walls that is on all the postcards - I took
this one!!

Cádabo to Lugo

2009-05-21T11:17:00.000-07:00

31 km
16.00: Terry has walked past Castroverde and is now in the Hotel España, Lugo. The Roman walls are wonderful. The only complete Roman walls in Europe! He is so pleased to have arrived here 'early' and will stay until Sunday. Plenty of time for a rest and to look round.

He feels so sorry for 3 pilgrims who injured themselves yesterday on the bad section of track - twisted ankles and knees. He saw them this morning catching a bus as they had to be in Santiago on Sunday. Terry said he himself was walking like a little old man, depending on the support of his pilgrim's staff to avoid slipping backwards down the hill. (Its length is also useful going downhill as it reaches forward to give support.)

Walking westward.
A shadow of myself! Early morning with the sun at my back near Castroverde.

Castroverde.
The tower is the old keep in Castroverde. The Camino goes round the back of town. Pilgrims were keeping out of the way of the 'gentry' in the castle which was also the site of the district gaol- all the more reason for keeping your head down!

A Fonsagrada to Cádabo

2009-05-20T00:57:00.000-07:00

24km
16.00: Terry has arrived in Cádabo and booked into the hotel - supper in the bar.

Photos:

Fonsegrada town name plaque

View from the hostal in Fonsagrada

The old ruined hospital at Montouto was the pilgrim refuge, dating from the 1380s until the 1700s. It was built by Pedro 1 (Pedro the Cruel). The dolmen was nearby.

The path today was hard walking, especially for 6kms between A Lastra and Cádabo, as it was washed away in places; all big stones and water! Terry needed his pilgrim's staff for support as it was very slippery.

Not only that but just outside Cádabo, there were beehives on one side of the track and a swarm on the other. Terry crept past and then took the photo looking back! He says, "What other perils are there?"

He had a bar lunch (very salt cheese, ham and bread) with three French pilgrims he had met previously in Grandas, and another good supper tonight (soup, steak and chips and caramel flan). He says he needs to eat well as he doesn't have any spare weight to lose.
Lugo tomorrow, all being well. Terry is planning a long stop there as he wants to see the Roman walls as well as have a rest, so will stay 3 nights in Lugo itself before moving on to Mosteira on Sunday.

Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada

2009-05-19T01:37:00.000-07:00

28km
15.30 Terry is in Fonsegrada staying at the Hospedaje Cantabrico (20eu with bathroom).
There were many roadworks again, as earlier on the walk..
Keeping his priorities right he booked supper for 20.30, then went for a shower and a rest.
"I walked with my shirt sleeves down today because the sun was so hot - enough breeze to be comfortable.
Frogs!!! dozens of them making such a din! I wondered what the noise was and then saw the pond!
Old Fonsagrada would have been a hilltop fortified town. Nothing left to see but the fact that the ground falls away all round.
There are a number of road works between the border pass (Asturias /Galicia) and Fonsagrada, so much so that at one point I had to walk round the hot tarmac which they were spreading across the "Camino". I didn't want to burn my boots. When they have finished the camino will run alongside the road as shown in the 'Fonsegrada' photo. It is even railed off so that you can't fall over the edge. It doesn't have the feel of the old track which goes over fields and moorland.
The old Camino kept to the high ground because the valleys were full of trees and bandits! It does mean that to cross streams etc. there is a steep drop down and then an equally steep pull back up the other side!"

In Fonsegrada the internet is all new equipment - about 20 sets!! Paid for by EU.

The Way passes along the side of the new road

The view is looking back from Fonsegrada.

There were dozens of frogs in a pond by the Camino.

Grandas de Salime

2009-05-18T07:17:00.000-07:00

Terry moved into the Hotel La Barra at lunchtime. He says it is cold but dry and his washing is out on the balcony drying. He has also had his boots oiled.
The Casa Cultural is closed, so there is no internet except in the hotel, if you have your own laptop. Also closed on Mondays is the Museum, but Terry had a quick look round yesterday. They have a very good website at http://www.museodegrandas.com (you need to be able to read Spanish) with plenty of photos and a virtual tour.
Yesterday evening he had supper with three Italian pilgrims he had met in the albergue on Saturday night. They have gone on today as they need to be in Santiago this weekend.

Terry had his main meal at lunchtime with a snack for supper, so as to get an early night. Breakfast is promised for 7.45 and he wants to be on the road at 8.00. He will walk to A Fonsegrada, about 28km, as there does not seem to be anywhere to stop before that. Up over 1030mts again tomorrow, then down to 930mts before the next stop at Cádavo. After that it is lowland walking until Melide next week.

The public barbecue at Grandas.
Terry was impressed with the Barbeque and seating
set-up. No doubt they use it for their fiestas - also in Grandas.

Berducedo to Grandas de Salime

2009-05-17T07:09:00.000-07:00

20km
13.10: Terry is in Grandas de Salime and booked into the hostal, but they can only do one night. (He sent a text later to say he has been able to book a room in the hotel for Monday night and will move there at mid-day.) A good meal again of soup with pasta, milanesa (bread-crumbed, spiced steak) and yoghurt.

Today's walk had to be on the road because of the weather. Very low cloud on the mountain tops made visibility too poor to use the tracks. The Way drops into the valley and crosses the hydro electric dam; then there is a very long (5km) steep climb back up to Grandas.
Salime itself is under the waters.

Rest day tomorrow and then 2 more stops before Lugo. They will be long days.

Pola de Allande to Berducedo

2009-05-16T02:04:00.000-07:00

20.5km
14.30: Terry arrived and booked in at the albergue in Berducedo. The phone signal is very weak here, but he managed some news.
It has been raining all day and very wet, so a shower and dry clothes were first on his list; then he cooked some pasta etc. The albergue is very good; 10 beds - all filled up by this evening. The heating was on and everyone's things were drying nicely.

Today's walk took Terry higher still as he headed towards Berducedo. He took a photo at the pass 1140 metres up, but the visibility was only about 50 mts That's life!
He is aiming for Grandas de Salime tomorrow and planning to stay in the hostal there for two nights. A rest day on Monday (and maybe the internet). Then there are only 3 possible stops before Lugo.
The landscape and towns/villages of the past week remind him of Dartmoor, around Princetown and Two Bridges. Some 'villages' have only one or two houses.

View at the pass

Campiello to Pola de Allande

2009-05-15T01:29:00.000-07:00

12km
13.30: Terry is now in Pola de Allande. A lovely day; he has been up to 815mts again today, but fairly easy walking. Higher tomorrow over the pass.
He is staying in the 'hostal'; bed and breakfast, with supper promised for tonight. The albergue in town opens tomorrow! For lunch he had the 'menu del dia' Prawn Soup. The prawns still had their shells on, and were floating around with the spider crab claws. Terry says he'll try anything once, it was interesting! but he wouldn't really recommend it.
So far he has walked over 400km and has 'only' 220km more to go. He is beginning to believe that he can do it! The next two days will be hard walking, but he would like to reach Grandas de Salime on Sunday and then have a rest day on Monday. Hopefully there will be internet access so that he can send some more photos.

Terry continues to value your your prayers for determination and safety on The Way, and also for farmers and Farm Crisis Network (FCN)."
If you wish to make a donation to FCN please give on-line at :-
www.justgiving.com/walktocompostela. Thank you.
You can read more about FCN (Farm Crisis Network) at :-
www.farmcrisisnetwork.org.uk

PS: Supper was good. Soup with chorizo in it, chicken+veg omelette, meat+veg wrapped in a cabbage leaf, followed by Italian sponge cake. Like a python, going to sleep!

Photo:
The pass at Levadoira

Tineo to Campiello

2009-05-14T00:52:00.000-07:00

12km
11.50: Terry has reached Campiello, just before Borres, he is now 900 metres above sea level. He has decided to stay here in a Casa Rural (25eu for bed and a meal and very pilgrim friendly), rather than have to carry food on up to the albergue. The bar/shop is all part of the Casa.
It has been raining this morning, but he was able to take shelter so has not needed his cape. It was very wet for a few minutes.
13.30: He has gone into the bar/shop for his lunch. The sign in the shop says 'open 25 hours' !! He says it is like 'Open all Hours' - literally. They sell everything, all in together; dried cod, soap flakes, fruit,cheese etc. Herminia, the owner was happy for Terry to take the photo below.
After soup, steak and chips, bread yoghurt and a glass of wine he thought a siesta woould be good.
He had some supper there too and has spent the evening talking to the locals.
Tomorrow he is expecting to walk to Pola de Aliende and his hostess has said that she will give him breakfast before he leaves. She says he should not go before 9.00 as it may be cloudy/misty, and anyway he will arrive there by mid-day, so why hurry?! He is enjoying the mountains and does not want to hurry, and also local advice is always worth folowing, and he says he is 'listening to the Camino'.

Doña Herminia, owner of the shop and the Casa Rural, Campiello

Bodenaya to Tineo

2009-05-13T05:22:00.000-07:00

12.5km
700 metres above sea level:
12.30: Terry has booked into the albergue in Tineo. It is very big, clean and tidy.
This morning was fine, but clouds were building up after lunch. Nearly all the way today was on tracks. There was some mud and water but nothing above the laces level on his boots.
He has walked alone, but 4 other pilgrims have come into the albergue this afternoon. Salad and pizza for lunch and a tin of peaches, bread and chorizo tonight.
His e-mail said "Tineo is good, so different to Salas!" Terry says he would walk from Grado to Cornellana, then Bodenaya and miss Salas if he came this way again (he obviously was not keen on the place!).

Photos:
The Camino into Tineo

View from the Camino towards the mountains

Between Tineo and Lugo it might be difficult to update daily, apart from estimating where Terry should be. It will depend on the availability of phone signals and the internet.

Salas to Bodenaya

2009-05-12T06:42:00.000-07:00

7.5km
10.30am:
Terry has stopped at Bodenaya, on the way to La Espina. He saw the albergue and the owner was on the road. They got talking and Terry decided to stay for the night as he liked the look of it. He says the albergue is lovely, all new and also 'donativo' only.
By 13.30 he had his washing done and hung out. The internet café did not have broadband, so he will look again tomorrow in Tineo. He should be there in good time as it is only about 12km.
After a fine morning the afternoon turned damp, so he took his washing inside. By supper time it was pouring with rain and his washing was in the drier!
19.00: The fire was lit and Terry was sitting in front of it with a glass of Vino Tinto.
20.15: Had supper, fideos and ensalada, which the hospitalero cooked. He will also get breakfast here before setting off again. his comment "I wish all albergues were like this" Certainly worth a visit and a good donation.

The 'jovenes' (young people) take 10 days from here to Santiago (253km), Terry plans to take 18, stopping in all the albergues he can find on the way to Lugo - 10 or 11 days walking. There is no snow now and none is expected so he will be going through/over the mountains.

Photo:
Leaving Bodenaya

Grado to Salas

2009-05-11T05:47:00.000-07:00

25km
15.30: Terry has walked to Salas today. There were two diversions round roadworks and he arrived in the rain. He has had his full wet weather gear on as there was a thunderstorm. Effective, he was dry underneath it.
There would have been nowhere to dry anything in the albergue so he has gone up the road to the hotel, cost 15 euros. He thought it was worth the extra 10 euros to get things dry. He has hung his poncho and over-trousers up in the en-suite bathroom and put his boots on the window sill. He wiped some reproofer over them in Oviedo so his feet are nice and dry too.
Away from the coast it is much cheaper for overnight stops, and hopefully also for meals. He had found both accomodation (even albergues) and food quite expensive up to now.

When he can find an internet café there will be some more photos. He tried to send some photos in Oviedo, but without success, so will try again when possible.

Oviedo to Grado

2009-05-10T06:38:00.000-07:00

26km

16.00: Terry says he has reached Grado and is staying in the hostal for the night, where there is a café below. The albergue is 3.5km further on and does not have food.
(Various friends told him to make sure he was well fed! This is the reason for the frequent comments on pizzas etc. Terry recommends the Bacalao a la Vizcaina* with ensalada mixta - which could have been enough for two!)
It has been hard and thirsty work walking because of the humidity. (2 litres of water plus coca cola and coffee.) Also Terry prefers the rural walking and way-marking. He got lost briefly leaving Oviedo and, as a result, went round the Plaza de Liberación twice before leaving town.
In Grado it is still very humid with thunder in the mountains, but only a few drops of rain so far.

*Cod in a tomato based sauce

Photo:
Leaving Oviedo

Oviedo

2009-05-09T12:57:00.000-07:00

Terry has had a good rest. This morning he had a good lie in, and then has only pottered about, giving his feet a rest and his clothes a good wash. A 10" pizza for lunch; bread and goat's cheese for supper, to be followed by an early night.
Terry is enjoying talking to the locals in the various places he has passed through. The farmers with their cows; the people in the varous shops and cafés as well as the hospitaleros etc. Apparently Spanish milk cows like to listen to Radio 2!
He has also heard as he has walked of the problems facing tourism. Here in the province of Asturias tourism is 60% down on last year and some places have closed down. Along the Camino it is better, but there are few peregrinos (pilgrims). It is not only the farmers who need our prayers.

Photo:
The Cathedral of San Salvador, Oviedo

Pola de Siero to Oviedo

2009-05-08T02:54:00.000-07:00

17.5km
13.10: Terry has reached Oviedo and has been to visit the cathedral of El Salvador and the earlier church, the Cámara Santa.
He plans a rest day tomorrow and to walk on again on Sunday. He has walked the section this week (from Llanes) quicker than he expected, but will keep his 'spare' day 'in hand' in case he needs to take longer further along the Way.
A decision on the Lugo or coast option will have to be made early next week, but he still hopes that the weather forecasts and snow line will permit him to go via Lugo. It was damp but warm this morning, fine this afternoon.
Terry says (as he did in an earlier post) "I would appreciate your prayers for determination and safety on The Way. Please pray also for farmers and for the work of Farm Crisis Network (FCN)."
You might wish to make a donation to FCN. If you can, please give on-line at :-

www.justgiving.com/walktocompostela. Thank you.
You can read more about FCN (Farm Crisis Network) at :-
www.farmcrisisnetwork.org.uk

Photo:
Leaving Pola de Siero
The way markings are set in the pavement.

Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero

2009-05-07T09:11:00.000-07:00

28.5km
Terry arrived here at 16.00, and has booked into a hotel for the night. It was a hard walk up to the pass (400m) at La Campa. This morning was damp and there was mist at the top of the pass. From there the Way was along the road to Pola.
Just 17.5 km to Oviedo and a rest day on Saturday.

Photo:
Misty Mountains 10 km from Villaviciosa - looking back to the Valdediós monastery

La Isla to Villaviciosa

2009-05-06T10:52:00.000-07:00

22km
I arrived in Villaviciosa at 15.30 and am staying in the hostel here.
Omelette sandwich for lunch and coca cola. That will keep me going until supper time.
Today was hot again, and very humid when it was cloudy. It was cloudy in the morning and clear in the afternoon, as it has been on other days.
The cows, near La Llera, were part of the biggest milk herd I've seen, 60 or so. They were cutting grass with a motor scythe and picking it up with tractor. Very modern. Most 'farms' seem to be part time. Some are still cutting grass by hand and talking it in to the cow with horse and cart.

Cows near La Llera

Last view of the estuary before turning inland to Villaviciosa

Llames to La Isla

2009-05-05T08:17:00.000-07:00

Terry has walked an amazing 32km today, past Leces to La Isla and is in the albergue (hostel) there for the night.
It has been sunny all day. He arrived at 17.00 and by 17.50 he had his washing hung out and was going for a drink.
He is really pleased to have come so far today. He is expecting to reach Oviedo on Friday or Saturday, for another rest day. Then he will have to decide whether the weather permits turning towards Lugo. If not he will return to the coast on the train to pick up his route again as near as possible to where he left it.
The old 'Camino Real' comes off the beach at La Vega. Obviously the original 'way' and still had paving in some places, in others holes full of mud!! Everything was closed at La Vega except for a small 'kiosko' where the young chap made me a sandwich! Cheese and choritzos in a loaf of bread!!

An old bridge on the Camino Real

La Vega - the white kiosk is in front of the long dark building in the centre of the photo

Llanes to Nueva (near Llames)

2009-05-04T06:25:00.000-07:00

No, it is not a spelling mistake!
Llames is on the coast, near Nueva which is 17km from Llanes. There is no food near the hostel, which is 1.5km further on, but here in Nueva there is a restaurant on the corner nearby, although it doesn't open until 20.30 tonight.
Terry set out at 9.15 wearing poncho and trousers and arrived at Nueva at 13.30. Near Barro he spoke to two very friendly farmers who were TB testing their cows (similar to Jerseys with long horns). Here they blame deer for the spread of the disease. They moved 5 cows off the road to let Terry through.
Part of the track along the cliff tops has collapsed into the sea. The route in one place now goes down onto the beach for several yards, then back up some steps. (OK if the tide is out!!) Along the road some cars and lorries give a cheerful toot as they pass. Encouraging - 'be kind to Pilgrims' .
Bread and cheese from the shop for lunch, and the lady in the shop gave Terry directions to a bed for tonight. Up an outside staircase to the 'front door' and then he was shown up to a very nice attic room, one of 5 with a shared bathroom. By 14.50 he had booked a bed for the night.
After the hectic week-end everything is shut today! he got a snack when the shop re-opened at 17.30 and then had a wander round to check out the start of the route for tomorrow. Supper will be at about 21.00 tonight.
He hopes to get past Ribadesella (8km) tomorrow and on to Leces (another 8km).

The 'shell' window at San Pedro de Prial, near Nueva
You can see the shell carved at the top of the arch

(click on the photo to enlarge it, then 'back' to return here)

Llanes

2009-05-03T12:21:00.000-07:00

A rest day. Plenty of time to wander around the old part of Llanes with my Crocs on instead of boots. A beautiful place. If I wasn't needing to walk on I could stay here for a week quite happily. The Camino goes out of town past a tower in the old walls and I shall be going towards Ribadesella further along the coast.

Photos:
Llanes and foothills of the Picos de Europa

Llanes harbour

Colombres to Llanes

2009-05-02T07:09:00.000-07:00

Distance today 22.6km :
15.35: Terry has arrived in Llanes where he is staying in the Gran Hotel Paraiso for two nights. He got the last bed!! and I am not sure if he meant in the hotel or in Llanes. (He says it was what is called 'a camino experience' - a real sense of God's presence with him) The whole place is full for the Bank Holiday.
An easier walk today with very good weather. The Picos de Europa are covered in snow with the snow-line very low.
A rest day tomorrow before continuing towards Oviedo on Monday. He hopes to reach Oviedo for next weekend and, depending on the weather forecast, will turn south towards Lugo rather than going along the coast where there are long distances between hostels.
Total of 211km walked (from Exeter to Llanes); aprox 250km to go to Santiago de Compostela; and currently halfway between Santander and Oviedo.

Photos:
Bridge on the old Camino
View along the coast

San Vicente to Colombres

2009-05-01T06:58:00.000-07:00

Friday 1st May: (Today is Bank Holiday in Spain)
15.05: Stopping in Colombres for the night, as planned. Bed booked in the albergue.
There was heavy rain last night so Terry is busy cleaning mud off his boots.
(The four pilgrims who arrived at San Vicente at about 19.00 yesterday evening had water running out of their hair! However they were soon dried out and then they and Terry had their meal with the hospitaleros)
Although damp this morning it was warm and dry this afternoon. There had been tractors churning up the path in places, making it very muddy. (Sounded a bit like some of our 'green lanes' when 4x4s have been down them!)
Tonight by 19.00 he had dried his boots out well and hung his clothes to dry too. He is going to'eat out' at a local restaurant. Two cyclists have joined him in the albergue tonight. There are just the 3 of them in a very big place.
Terry hopes to get to Llanes tomorrow, and for the first time is trying to book ahead for a bed because of the Bank Holiday.
He has had one small blister, on his toe, at the begining of the week. It is drying up well and hasn't caused him any real bother.

Cóbreces to San Vicente de la Barquera

2009-04-30T08:06:00.000-07:00

Thursday 30th:
15.40: Terry has arrived in San Vicente de la Barquera, 24km from Cóbreces. There was a diversion round roadworks on this stretch too,which added extra kms. He is staying in the albergue in San Vicente and found an internet café, so I can add pictures to the recent posts. The sun is shining after a damp morning, and all is well.
17.30: He has washed, and dried, all his clothes and powdered his boots ready for tomorrow.

Terry says he is halfway (in kms walked) from Exeter to Oviedo. He hopes to make Oviedo for next weekend and will then decide which route to take. At present the snowline is down at 900mts and the path goes up over 1000mts, so he may re-trace his route , by rail, and walk along the coast.

The view is across the harbour to San Vicente, which is entered over the bridge. The great 13th century church of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles is on the far right above the town and the Picos de Europa are in the background.

The rainbow is on the road near to Cóbreces; a reminder of God's promise that it will not rain for ever (!)
(If you click on the photos they will come up full screen)

Santillana to Cóbreces, via Novales

2009-04-29T08:10:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 29th
Terry lost his way in some road works just outside Santillana del Mar, but soon found the Way again. He had lunch in Ciguenza near Novales. He has now reached Cóbreces where he has a bed in the Abbey for the night. At 15.35 he was going to look for some Coca Cola! Vespers at 18.45. Total of 20.4km today.

Ponies grazing near to where Terry had his lunch.

Boo to Santillana del Mar

2009-04-29T04:06:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 28th:
29km.

It has been very windy, but not wet while walking from Boo to Santillana del Mar. Today's distance was really too long and was hard, but Terry said he went round the long way rather than over the railway bridge on the lines. The 'rest of the world' was doing so but he decided not to even though it put 11km onto the total for the day.

Terry is in the albergue 'Arco Iris' (Rainbow) at Santillana, where he ate spent the evening chatting to the 'hospitalera' (warden) in Spanish while he had his meal.
We stayed in the 'Camping' above the back of the village many years ago, looking down over it and made our first journey to Compostela, by car, from here. That is where the dream of walking began and it has taken 15 years to come to this point.

NB If you are using Google maps to follow the route this is Bóo de Pielagos. There are two other places called Bóo in northern Spain

Santander to Boo

2009-04-28T01:35:00.000-07:00

Monday 27th
13.15 (Spanish time) Terry sent a text to say he had arrived safely. He had lunch and then walked 16km out of Santander to Boo, where he stayed in a hostería for the night. Once again he missed the real rain, it started as he walked through the door. They made him welcome and even carried his rucksack up to his room for him.
At the Communion service in Chudleigh last week Terry spoke of the healing of blind Bartimaeus and how he followed Jesus (Mark 10 v.46-52). The Greek word used means 'road' or 'Way' - Bartimaeus became a follower of the Lord. As Terry walks on the Way during his Camino he will be praying for our farming community and for farmers worldwide. A particular concern which he carries in his heart, as you can see in the older posts.

The road out of Santander
and
The road into Boo

Sailing to Spain

2009-04-27T14:02:00.000-07:00

Day 6: - a rest day(?) - Sunday 26th - Terry left Plymouth in the afternoon, sailing to Santander. Expected time of arrival 12.30 p.m. (Spanish time) on Monday.

Leaving Plymouth, in the rain
and
Arriving in Santander in the sunshine

Ivybridge to Plymouth

2009-04-26T08:54:00.000-07:00

Day 5: Saturday 25th - from Ivybridge to Plymouth, 20 km.
I missed all the rain, although it was very wet at times. In Plympton I actually had my poncho in my hand when I unexpectedly met an old friend. He insisted I went for a coffee with him and his wife. Their church is thinking about a Pilgrimage in 2011. It was good to meet them again, and also to miss the torrential rain.
After refreshment and as the rain had stopped I walked to Marsh Mills roundabout, on the outskirts of Plymouth, and stopped for lunch in Sainsbury's café. The next heavy rain came while I was in there (having fish and chips). Then on to Devonport and my overnight stop. As my host was out until early evening I went into the local Pizza shop for 2 hours! I am very grateful that they let me stay so long, although I did eat one of their 10" pizzas during that time. Helped to make up the 900 calories I had walked off and kept me out of the final downpour.
So a dry day walking in spite of the weather. Thank you Lord.
Now I am praying for a calm crossing tomorrow.

The large butterfly, nearly as big as my hand, seen near Buckfast yesterday.

Buckfast Abbey to Ivybridge

2009-04-26T08:46:00.000-07:00

Day 4: Friday 24th April. Another fine day for walking.
Near to Buckfast I saw a large and unusual butterfly, an escapee from the nearby Butterfly farm maybe.
Then on over the Clapper Bridge at Harbourneford, used by pilgrims of past centuries and showing signs of much use on the granite slabs.
I arrived in Ivybridge just after 2 p.m. and after leaving my rucksack at the inn went to explore the town. (I had booked ahead here as there is very little in the way of B&B near to my route) They serve evening meals so I am well fed again and looking forward to the last stage on the way to Plymouth. The weather could be wet tomorrow (Saturday 25th) so I may be glad of my poncho.

Buckfast Abbey

2009-04-26T06:38:00.000-07:00

Day 3:Thursday 23rd April.
A good walk to Buckfast Abbey where I received a warm welcome from the Brothers, who were expecting me. I joined them for a meal and for Vespers. The accomodation is excellent and they have refused to take a donation as I am a Pilgrim. I am moved by their generosity. Lauds at 7a.m. followed by breakfast and then on the road again.

My first glimpse of Buckfast Abbey across the River Dart

Chudleigh to Liverton

2009-04-25T11:55:00.000-07:00

Day 2 of my pilgrimage and I set off from my home church, having led the mid-week Communion service. Again friends, and my wife Valerie, came to support me and pray for me as I set off. I walked to the Post Office at Liverton, where they stamped my Pilgrim's passport. To fit in with timing to Plymouth I returned home again for one last night, back to Liverton tomorrow. Then I am truly on my way, next stop the Guest House at Buckfast Abbey.

Day 1 Lunchtime

2009-04-25T06:50:00.000-07:00

Day 1 - lunchtime on the Haldon Hills, and I have made good time to here. The weather is just right and I have just over an hour's walk to my first overnight stop.

As I said in an earlier post I would appreciate your prayers for determination and safety on The Way, as well as any donation you feel able to give to FCN.

If you can, please give on-line at :-
www.justgiving.com/walktocompostela. Thank you.
You can read more about FCN (Farm Crisis Network) at :-
www.farmcrisisnetwork.org.uk

Day 1 Morning

2009-04-24T02:35:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 21st April

Day 1 - 9am and I leave from the west door of Exeter Cathedral and walk downhill towards the river. Early pilgrims would have passed this, now ruined, chapel on the old bridge over the River Exe. Then on over Haldon, as described below.

Leaving Exeter Cathedral

2009-04-21T09:15:00.000-07:00

Well, I'm finally into serious walking! I left Exeter Cathedral this morning at 9.00 a.m. after attending the 8.00 a.m. service of Holy Communion. It is humbling when people make a special effort to be there to bid farewell and God speed. Bishop John of Plymouth left home early to be with us and give me a 'Pilgrim's Blessing'. JaneB came, along with some friends of my wife Valerie and myself and representatives of FCN Devon. An emotional service which I shall always remember!
I then had company walking from the Cathedral, down Forestreet and over the ancient mediaeval bridge with its ruined tower from the travellers' 'chapel on the bridge'.
The walk over Haldon Hill is strenuous but not too difficult - just a matter of keeping going. Easier going up the 1:6 than coming down! In the days of stage coaches they had a number of horses stabled at the foot of the hill to assist on the drag to the top - 'trace horses' for those who know about these things!
I now have two nights in Chudleigh and then to Buckfast Abbey guest-house on Thursday night, Ivybridge on Friday and into Plymouth on Saturday.
We will try to keep information coming on this blog - certainly until I leave Plymouth on Sunday on the 4.00 p.m. ferry - after that it may be a bit more erratic, depending on cyber-cafes etc.

For those who are walking - 'Go well and Safely'
For those who remain behind - 'Stay well and safely'

If you don't know the Roncesvalles blessing used by Bishop John of Plymouth it can be found at
http://www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com/board/miscellaneous-topics/topic3723.html#p20131

Shepherding!

2009-04-19T13:15:00.000-07:00

A prophetic photo taken the year that I was ordained deacon! At the time I was working on a farm on the edge of Dartmoor. The first Church in which I served labelled it
"Father Terry with his previous flock"!
Called to follow in the footsteps of Moses, David, Amos and the rest.
The problem as always, is that with privilege comes with responsibilities. As I follow The Way to Compostela, I am aware that not many people can take 6 weeks out of their lives, so I count myself among the privileged.
What about responsibilities? Try as I might, a lifetime spent pastoring sheep - 4 legged and 2 legged - is not going to be set aside. I will need to be open to what has been called 'Camino moments'': times when there is a need, or an opportunity to serve - or be served!
In your prayers for me, please remember that I am not cutting myself off from human contact and that I need to be open to the Lord's leading and guidance. This will be especially relevant here in the U.K. as I walk from Exeter to Plymouth. The Spanish folk are used to pilgrims, here we are something of a novelty.
Please pray that a quiet witness to God's love will be part of my pilgrimage.

Eastertide

2009-04-09T12:20:00.000-07:00

Words from the prophet Isaiah always seem to me to be as appropriate for Easter as for Christmas when they are normally read.

"For behold darkness shall cover the earth and thick darkness the peoples; but the Lord will arise upon you and His glory will be seen upon you." (Isaiah Chapter. 60, v. 2)

As we wait for Easter Day the darkness closes in. Gethsemane and Good Friday are like the valley bottom! Then suddenly the light of the risen Lord Jesus appears, dispelling the darkness, shining in and through our hearts and lives.

I took this photo one misty morning. Darkness in the valley bottom, the sun rising over the hill behind the trees, and the mist clearing to reveal the world in all its beauty.

My 'training walks' have been times of inspiration and quietness as I have sought out new ways and followed waymarks on local footpaths.

The Wicket Gate

2009-03-31T08:55:00.001-07:00

On my walk yesterday (Monday 30th. March) this gate on one of the local bridle paths reminded me of John Bunyan's 'Pilgrim's Progress'. No shining light in sight but I found the wicket gate! - the entry to the narrow way.
No slough of despond either! That probably comes about halfway to Santiago de Compostela, when I might be asking 'is it worth it?'.

I would appreciate your prayers for determination and safety on The Way, as well as any donation you feel able to give to FCN.

If you can, please give on-line at :-
www.justgiving.com/walktocompostela. Thank you.
You can read more about FCN (Farm Crisis Network) at :-
www.farmcrisisnetwork.org.uk

The Uphill Way

2009-03-27T05:29:00.000-07:00

I have been asked 'why a pilgrimage?'
There are a number of reasons - I think the important one for me is that it is an opportunity to spend time with the Lord God. After 20+ years of parish ministry, a period of time away from the demands of phone, text and e-mail will give me the chance to listen in prayer, instead of coming to God with my daily 'shopping list'!
There is also the learning curve of having to spend time with companions and people not of my choosing! (O.K. it may be a bit like parish ministry in that respect but at least I do not have to walk with them - only listen to their snoring at night!)
The sponsorship is very worthwhile but not the foremost reason for undertaking something that becomes more and more scary as the time to leave approaches!
The title to this page is from the poem by Christina Rossetti - if you cannot remember it - here it is in full. Speaking about the pilgrimage of life not just the road to Santiago de Compostela.

Uphill -- Christina Rossetti

Does the road wind up-hill all the way?
Yes, to the very end.
Will the day's journey take the whole long day?
From morn to night, my friend.

But is there for the night a resting-place?
A roof for when the slow dark hours begin.
May not the darkness hide it from my face?
You cannot miss that inn.

Shall I meet other wayfarers at night?
Those who have gone before.
Then must I knock, or call when just in sight?
They will not keep you standing at that door.

Shall I find comfort, travel-sore and weak?
Of labour you shall find the sum.
Will there be beds for me and all who seek?
Yea, beds for all who come.